Alternative indigenous meats
Carpaccio of llama
Chile 495, Esquina Bolivar, San Telmo, Buenos Aires
+54 11 9 3671 8602
In the land of beef, Fernando Rivarola is ploughing an alternative furrow at El Baqueano. His BA restaurant specialiases in ‘native meats’ including llama, alligator, chinchilla, rhea (an ostrich-like bird), hare and wild boar. These are the traditional foods of many of the country’s regions but have been largely subsumed over the decades by the European-influened cuisine of the capital.
Rivarola – who hails from the coastal resort of Mar del Plata, and spent some seven years cooking in Spain – is leading this revival of tradition. Chincilla is spiced with cinnamon and wrapped in filo pastry; llama and wild boar are served carpaccio-style; yacare caiman alligator meat comes grilled as a brochette; rhea rump is wrapped in bacon.
Casual, friendly and remarkably well-priced, El Baqueano offers diners a seven-course tasting menu or an array of well-presented sharing plates a la carte. With knowledgeable staff imparting a genuine passion for their project, this is a culinary safari not to be missed.