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Bras

A seamless continuity, a modernism that grows naturally and instinctively out of the ancient, is the aim at Bras. If that sounds rather poetic, it's meant to. This isn't a restaurant that does anything as prosaic as merely feeding people. Instead, it's an attempt to conjure the history, landscape and soul of this area of southern France in a series of thoughtful, attractive plates of food.

At first glance, Bras itself - a light-flooded glass, granite and slate structure - may not seem that pastoral. But the building, built in 1992, is deliberately intended to root staff and diners into the land. Uninterrupted views of the surrounding countryside are best enjoyed from the raised, panoramic lounge, while the buildings are meant to mimic the stone peasant 'burons' that once littered the surrounding plateau.

In many ways Bras is a traditional family business. Father and son, Michel and Sébastien, cook. Mother Ginette and daughter-in-law Véronique work here, too. While eating, you will use a traditional Laguiole (the local town) knife, and perhaps enjoy the local unpasteurised cow's milk Laguiole cheese, in a dining room decorated with regional art works.

But this is a traditional family business producing food that even the most radical 'techno-emotional' chef would appreciate the ambition of the cooking. Bras's famous 'gargouillou', reinvents a peasant dish as an ever-changing, painstakingly assembled salad of 40 vegetables, flowers, herbs and seeds. Elsewhere, dishes are designed to insinuate a rusty autumn garden, or the winter light breaking through clouds. These are intended as multi-sensory, emotional and intellectual prompts that "resonate complex waves of pleasure".

To paraphrase a popular TV advert, this isn't just food, this is Michel Bras's interpretation of Aubrac on a plate. And it's a truly gourmet experience.

Behind the stove:

Michel and Sébastien Bras

What they say:

"Staying and eating chez Michel Bras is not your typical French country weekend. It's like going on a Zen retreat in a space colony." Time Magazine

New this year:

Toute la Méditerranée; une aubergine dite de Toulouse grillée à la braise, accompagnée d'oeufs de cabillaud fumé, d'oeufs de mulet pressés, d'anchois ; relevée d'herbes qui pétille - cresson de para, rau-ram & cannelle de magellan

Not a lot of people know:

Monday (when Bras is closed) is team-bonding day. This can involve staff in anything from grape picking to playing football against a local side

Route de l'Aubrac, 12 210 Laguiole, France
+33 (0)5 65 51 18 20
www.michel-bras.com