Arzak
Juan Mari Arzak is one of the great characters of the culinary world. At 65, he may be the grand old man of Spain's new cuisine, but he has the energy and dynamism of a man one-third his age. His quest to reinvent Basque cuisine, inspired after attending a short course with French chef Paul Bocuse in 1976, has led him on a boundary-busting journey of discovery involving new techniques and unusual ingredients. Together with his talented daughter Elena, he continues that work today, a 'flavour lab', or test kitchen, above his restaurant attesting to his ambition to experiment and discover.
But despite the lab, with its library of 1,000 ingredients, and the stunning, modern presentation of the dishes, Arzak's cuisine is deeply rooted in tradition, perhaps not surprising when you consider the restaurant was previously owned by his parents, who themselves inherited it from his grandparents, who had opened a tavern on the site in 1897. Many of his creations are modern interpretations of classic Basque dishes, and local ingredients are always key to his cuisine. It's just that sometimes, the local ingredients are a little unexpected: so a new dish for this year, Hake with White Clay, hints at Arzak's new interest in cooking with the earth.
Elena herself is a formidable cook, having trained at some of Europe's most prestigious restaurants including Le Gavroche and El Bulli, but as important as the food is, Arzak also stands out for its warmth and welcome, with Juan Mari's lust for life lighting up every corner of his establishment.
The good news is that Juan Mari shows no sign of hanging up his whites. "I won't leave the kitchen because otherwise my life makes no sense," he says.
San Sebastian has long been the culinary heartbeat of Spain and Arzak is a major reason why.
Behind the stove:
Juan Mari Arzak, Elena Arzak
New dish this year:
Hake and white clay; lobster with white olive oil
What they say:
"Modern and entertaining, often witty, never overwrought, limited largely to local ingredients." (R W Apple, New York Times)
Not a lot of people know that:
Juan Mari has a passion for toys
273 Avenida Alcalde Elosegui, 20015 Donostia/San Sebastian+34 943 278 465
www.arzak.es
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