L'Astrance
Pascal Barbot and Christophe Rohat opened this charming restaurant, neighbouring the Eiffel Tower, in 2000, having made their names at Alain Passard's L'Arpège. Head Chef Barbot works his magic in the kitchen, while Rohat oversees the dining room. L'Astrance serves innovative fare in a setting which is modern yet cosy, with its striking grey steel columns and yellow chairs.
There are only 25 covers in the split-level dining room, with a comfortable metre between the tables meaning diners benefit from private, personalised service without feeling hemmed in. This intimacy extends to the surprise menu; the waiter asks only if there is something you cannot eat before serving each diner about 10 mystery dishes with corresponding wines. Rohat compares this approach to eating at a friend's house, where there too you cannot expect to know what you will eat until it arrives on your plate. The surprises change constantly depending on what fresh market produce is available. Dishes like the Oyster Cappuccino have had critics salivating since the restaurant opened, and tables are booked at least a month in advance. Attention to detail is obvious when even the bread has been getting rave reviews.
Behind the stove:
Pascal Barbot
What they say:
"It is clear that chef Pascal Barbot has a totally other vision. What we mortals see in black and white, he sees in Technicolor." Patricia Wells, International Herald Tribune
New dish this year
Velouté de Céleri, Coulis de Truffe Noire, Parmesan Fondu (Celery Velouté, Black Truffle Coulis, Melted Parmesan)
Not a lot of people know:
Barbot and Rohat make a strong team but they are divided when it comes to football: Barbot's an Arsenal fan; Rohat supports Marseille.
4 rue Beethoven, 75016 Paris, France+33 (0)1 40 50 84 40
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