L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Legendary is an overused term, but it can be applied without hesitation to Joël Robuchon. Named Chef of the Century by the Gault Millau guide, Robuchon shocked the culinary world when he retired in 1996 at the age of just 50. He shocked the world again in 2003 when he burst back onto the Paris scene, not with a temple of gastronomy, but with his highly individual, up-market take on a tapas bar.
The city queued around the smart 7th arrondissement block for the opportunity to grab one of the 36 stools arranged around the open kitchen, to sample tasting plates of Fresh Mackerel on a Thin Tart with Parmesan Shavings and Olives, Crispy Langoustine Fritter with Basil Pistou, and Quail stuffed with Foie Gras.
It was a formula for considerable success, and now an army of black-uniformed chefs work around the world in a series of Ateliers as far afield as Hong Kong and Las Vegas, all sporting variations on the original black, red and dark wood contemporary design.
If you're lucky, you might just see the great man himself whipping up a portion of his world famous mash, but a team of dedicated lieutenants, including Eric Lecerf, man the kitchen with aplomb on a day-to-day basis.
Behind the stove:
Head Chef Philippe Braun and Head Chef Eric Lecerf
What they say:
"Each dish is an unprecedented sensation." Decca Aitkenhead, The Observer
New dish this year:
Pig's Trotter on Parmesan Toast.
Not a lot of people know that:
The notoriously stern chef has a softer side: Eric Ripert of three-Michelin-starred Le Bernardin in New York says that Robuchon "tugged at his hair and called him Coco" when he worked for him at Jamin.
5-7 rue de Montalembert, 75007 Paris, France+33 (0)1 4222 5656
www.joel-robuchon.com
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