St John
Since opening St John in October 1994 in a former smokehouse next to London's Smithfield meat market, Fergus Henderson's stripped back, stark approach to cooking has become hugely influential. You'll find it all over London in acclaimed gastropubs such as the Anchor and Hope, Great Queens Street and Hereford Road, all run by St John alumni of course. But only in St John do you find Henderson's offal friendly "nose to tail" style in all its uncompromising glory.
Where else would you be served chitterlings (pigs lower intestine) and beetroot or pigs head and radishes? The brusque descriptions aren't knowing, post-modernist jokes; what you read is what you get. And what you get is as delicious and satisfying as the most refined haute cuisine.
Take Henderson's immortal signature dish of Roast Marrowbone and Parsley Salad. Scooping gelatinous marrow from hot bones onto crisp bread, then scattering with a pinch of parsley, capers and shallot salad is a ready-made culinary memory even before you've taken your first bite.
Dining at St John is always an event. The Clerkenwell media and art crowd, foodies and off-duty chefs pack the functional white dining room, creating a convivial, party-like atmosphere that's encouraged by the ultra-friendly service.
Although the food may be predominately British in style, St John's concise wine list (compiled by Henderson's business partner Trevor Gulliver) is exclusively French.
Behind the stove:
Head Chef Chris Gillard
What they say:
"If any restaurant can be said to occupy the place of a holy shrine among restaurant critics, St John is it." Toby Young, Daily Mail
New dish this year:
Braised Tripe with Chickpeas, Chorizo and Trotters served on Duck Fat Toast
Not a lot of people know that:
During St John's 10th birthday celebrations in 2004, street artist Banksy painted a ghetto blaster-toting rat on the restaurant's wall. Sadly, the artwork has since been painted over.
26 St John Street, London EC1M 4AY, England+44 (0)20 7251 0848
www.stjohnrestaurant.co.uk
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