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Le Bernardin

Though representing New York's fine-dining scene at its most lavish and luxurious, Maguy Le Coze and chef Eric Ripert's Le Bernardin has its roots in humble beginnings. Le Coze and her brother, the late Gilbert Le Coze, were born into a family of Breton restaurateurs, learning their trade in their teens and their early 20s from the day-to-day graft in their parents' restaurant in the French Alps. The Le Coze duo set up their first Le Bernardin on a shoestring budget in 1972, moving to a larger Paris site in 1980, and finally crossing the Atlantic to New York's midtown in 1986.

Following Gilbert's untimely death in 1994, Maguy Le Coze was joined by French chef Eric Ripert. Bringing with him his experience at such renowned houses as La Tour d'Argent and Jamin in Paris, the Antibes-born, Andorra-bred chef maintained the restaurant's coveted four New York Times stars. Superb seafood - only the best of the best - is the hallmark of the Bernardin menu, with dishes like warm sea urchin ravioli and oscietra caviar exuding pure luxury. Ripert's take on surf and turf - with tuan and Kobe beef 'Korean BBQ' style and fresh kimchi, or his baked lobster with candied ginger, port and tamarind showcase Ripert's bold style. Wines, expertly matched by sommelier Aldo Sohm, are just as singular.

Behind the stove:

Executive Chef Eric Ripert and Executive Pastry Chef Michael Laiskonis

What they say:

"Le Bernardin has aged with astonishing grace, more Deneuve than Dunaway, doing what it must to remain youthful without ever making an elastic fool of itself." Frank Bruni, the New York Times

New dish this year:

Thinly-pounded Smoked Salmon Carpaccio; Toasted Brioche and Caviar.

Not a lot of people know that:

Growing up in Andorra, Ripert hoped to be a mountaineer when he was growing up.

155 West 51st Street, The Equitable Building, New York City, NY 10019, USA
++1 212 554 1515
www.le-bernardin.com