The beast in the room: A four-tonne, two-oven brick kiln designed by chef-owner Dave Pynt, who won the Chefs' Choice Award in 2017, dominates the busy open kitchen. Almost everything here – from quail eggs to an 80-day dry aged rib – is touched by the kiln's heat and smoke, or by the custom grills: Burnt Ends’ heart and soul.
Dominated by meat? Far from it. Australian-born Pynt counts Asador Etxebarri chef Victor Arguinzoniz among his mentors and, like the Basque master griller, he employs the coals to coax out the best in all ingredients, from fish to fowl.
A varied menu: Though grill-focused cookery might bring to mind animal proteins aplenty, Burnt Ends is certainly not a one trick pony. Sure, one will find a charred flat iron and rosemary-imbued lamb, but those dishes fall into place along garlic brown butter-laced king crab, and garlic shoots dressed with gremolata.
What’s in a name? Texan barbecue enthusiasts take note: Burnt Ends it may be by name, but there’s no low-and-slow smoked brisket on the menu; the restaurant is descended from a pop-up Dave Pynt had called Burnt Enz out the back of an East London coffee roaster in 2012.