Supaksorn 'Ice' Jongsiri
Why visit: Sorn is, quite possibly, the hottest Thai restaurant to debut in the buzzy Bangkok scene in recent years. Since it opened in September 2018, it has gone on to snag an admirable number of accolades including the Highest Climber Award in this year’s list.
Who is behind it: The chef-proprietor is Supaksorn “Ice” Jongsiri, also affectionately known as Khun Ice, whose family hails from the province of Nakhon Si Thammarat. Khun Ice also owns a chain of casual Thai restaurants named Baan Ice.
The concept: Southern Thai flavours incorporating tastes of bordering Malaysia but using almost exclusively Thai ingredients, presented with white-glove service in a stately refurbished old house at Sukhumvit Soi 26. So very much a fine-dining version of this distinct regional cuisine. However, Sorn offers exclusively a tasting menu that starts with a parade of individually portioned snacks before it builds up to almost 10 communally shared mains.
Signature dish: Crab leg from Surat Thani, southern Thailand, slathered with creamy crab roe and tear-inducing yellow chilli paste served with a side of diced raw crab with ginger and lemongrass. There are other standouts too, not least the salad course with a riot of vegetables including winged beans and torched ginger and grains flavoured with a dressing made from fish innards.