What's it all about? A spin-off from Asia’s 50 Best top-ten mainstay Florilège, Logy celebrates local Taiwanese ingredients while remaining true to the roots of its Tokyo sister. A fixed-price tasting menu changes regularly, but the chawanmushi (an egg custard traditionally found in Japan) with crab and wild celery sorbet in a hot beef consommé has become something of a signature.
How about the setting? Tucked away in a seven-storey apartment building down a Daan district alleyway, the minimalist and dimly lit concrete interior signals a singular focus on the food served from an open kitchen to 13 guests at the L-shaped counter.
What’s in a name? Logy takes Asian cuisine seriously. A card presented to diners explaining the concept and the terminology of the name gives a flavour of the its philosophy. Logy, or the suffix -logy as it is styled, conjures ideas of study and theory and was chosen to express Asia’s ‘profound dynamism’. It is also phonetically linked to the Japanese word for alley (‘roji’), matching the restaurant’s discrete location.
Who’s behind the kitchen counter? Japanese-born Ryogo Tahara journeyed to Italy for apprenticeships in fine-dining restaurants under the likes of Gennaro Esposito at Torre del Saracino and Maurilio Garola of La Ciau del Tornavento. After returning to Japan, Tahara worked as sous-chef for three years under Hiroyasu Kawate at Florilège.
Need to know: Reservations for one of the 13 seats are notoriously hard to come by and must be done solely through the online booking system 60 days in advance.