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Paris, France

Up-and-coming Australian chef redefines the French bistro

The interior of this hip bistro and bar - hailed as one of Paris’ best new restaurants - is taken back to the bare bones, hence the name. Previously an Irish pub, the dining room walls have been returned to their original tile and brick state, while the simple wooden bar is mobbed most nights with a young trendy crowd sipping craft beers and slurping oysters.

Set up by Australian chef James Henry, who made a name for himself at the nearby Au Passage, the restaurant has a daily changing five-course set menu, which is as stripped back as the restaurant interior itself. Excellent produce is given room to shine in deceptively simple dishes, such as guinea fowl with grilled artichokes and spring vegetables; or tripe with tomato sauce, polenta and smoked cheese. Other highlights include the homemade charcuterie and ricotta, while the restaurant’s 24-hour, naturally fermented bread served with butter churned by the chef himself is worth a visit on its own.

The largely biodynamic wine selection features unusual grape varieties from small producers and a concise cocktail list is populated with modish tipples including negronis and pisco sours.

Images: ©Bones; portrait ©Stanislas Liban

On the pass

  • James Henry

Style of food

  • Modern French

Standout dish

  • Ceps, girolles and barley with soft cooked egg and broccoli leaves