With food served on ‘canvasses’, and sauces painted on to dishes, the phrase ‘works of art’ certainly comes to mind when describing Spanish fusion restaurant DiverXo. With young Madrid-born chef David Muñoz at the pass – an alumnus of high-end Asian stalwarts Hakkasan and Nobu – it’s no surprise that hearty Iberian traditions meet the fragrant flavours of China and Japan. European classics such as cochinillo (suckling pig) sit happily next to Eastern touches, such as steamed carrot dim sum and glossy bull tail noodle soup.
Unsurprisingly, for a restaurant of DiverXo’s calibre, presentation is sensational: gleamingly fresh monkfish is teamed with ‘potato glass’ – multi-coloured shards of thin potato. One plate might be geometrically arranged to the nearest millimetre; the next artfully scattered with seeds and sauces in a manner that would give Jackson Pollock a run for his money.
The playful variety of cuisine on offer at DiverXo is further emphasised by the restaurant’s policy of handing different implements to diners throughout; from the expected (chopsticks) to the more unusual, including a spatula for one fish dish, which is said to carve through the soft flakes with far greater ease than a fish knife.
With a décor of cool greys and chromes, and set away from Madrid’s centre, DiverXo’s calm atmosphere belies a reported month-long waiting list and only helps emphasise the vibrancy of the menu’s international delights.
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