Draw back the heavy curtain at the back of champagne and hotdog joint Bubbledogs and a hidden restaurant is revealed where talented young chef James Knappett takes centre stage. Working in a shiny open kitchen, flanked by a U-shaped counter that sits just 19 people, Knappett and his team flaunt their culinary skills directly in front of diners as they prepare the daily changing 14-course menu.
Each dish is described by just a single word, chalked onto a blackboard and announced by the chef himself, so ‘beetroot’ is actually an earthy blend of beetroot, fennel and garlic scapes, while ‘chicken’ is a combo of chicken skin and grilled onion with burrata milk.
The food is technically accomplished with the kitchen team busily frothing foams and piping purées, but these complex processes enhance rather than detract from the stunning seasonal and foraged ingredients. Knappett’s assured touch at the stove owes much to a sparkling CV that includes spells at London’s The Ledbury and Per Se in New York, which is where he met his future wife and business partner Sandia Chang. She is the sommelier at both Bubbledogs and Kitchen Table and regularly travels in search of boutique producers for her award-winning wine list, which is focused on grower champagnes.
Images: ©Paul Winch-Furness/Kitchen Table
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