Lima, Peru

New-wave butchery makes for a modern meat masterclass


On the Pass

Renzo Garibaldi

Chief reason to visit: A butcher’s shop and restaurant all rolled into one, Osso is the place to go in Lima for all the best cuts, from perfectly cooked ribeye to flavoured sausages (cheddar, rocotó pepper marmalade and limo chilli). Almost everything is grilled over the barbecue and there’s a casual à la carte as well as a tasting menu to be eaten with the hands only.

Typical dishes: Osso carpaccio, deconstructed cutlets, artisanal hamburgers and the signature wagyu steak tartare, prepared with spring onion, Maras salt and an egg yolk.

A few words on the chef: Garibaldi’s wife Andrea signed him up for a masterclass in San Francisco with meat maestro Ryan Farr in 2010; he then spent the next three years learning about sustainable butchery in the US and France, developing ideas for his restaurant.

A brief history: Osso opened in 2013 with just one semi-secret table at the back of Garibaldi’s meat emporium. But it proved so popular, not least with visiting international chefs, that it soon expanded into the adjacent dining space it occupies today.

Back to the origins: The 2020 pandemic offered a chance for Garibaldi to analyse his priorities, and for the first time in years, he re-opened the one-table concept that first brought him to fame. Here, he now serves a daily tasting menu for only 12 people sitting at a communal table, which may take in his outstanding charcuterie, grilled fish and vegetables and – of course – a signature steak. The larger, slightly more informal restaurant is still open next door.

What’s the vibe? Casual, noisy and rustic – this is a joint to get your hands dirty and become at one with your carnivorous self.