Hot food and a cool scene add up to one of Paris’s most talked-about addresses
What’s the appeal? This is a cool space in a cool street run by cool people with lots of cool customers.
But what of the food? Dip a fork into the menu on any given day and you’ll quickly discover that the food more than holds its own. Turbot is paired with Brussels sprouts, bacon and a sauce of mushrooms from Paris. The texture of new-season white asparagus is played off against oysters, hazelnuts and clotted cream. Oh, and there’s a sorbet of cheese flavoured with bay and teamed with an apple and pear purée.
What of the chef: Owner-chef Bertrand Grebaut is far from the only boldface-named Paris chef to graduate from the kitchens of Alain Passard’s landmark restaurant Arpège, but in a few short years he has quickly come to be recognised among such luminaries as L’Astrance’s Pascal Barbot as the future of French cooking.
What else: Grebaut and his team have colonised the neighbourhood with well-pitched brand extensions: the seafood-focused Clamato (possibly the best bet for the ever-tricky Saturday lunch slot in Paris) and the tiny, brilliant wine bar Septime La Cave.