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Alain Ducasse has gone back to basics at his eponymous flagship restaurant. There's now much less going on in his dishes – just two or three main ingredients presented simply, yet artfully – and his key aim is to strike a balance between acidity, bitterness and sweetness.
He's using less salt and fat too, confident in his team's ability to introduce great flavour by other means – although the presentation remains as flamboyant as the interior.
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