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Aqua's location is corporate in the extreme – the Wolfsburg Ritz-Carlton overlooks Volkswagen's Autostadt visitor attraction – but this is no soulless, carbon copy, could-be-anywhere, hotel fine-dining joint.
Sven Elverfeld applies his considerable skills to peasant food, resulting in avant-garde re-workings of boiled lamb fillet with Frankfurt green sauce and beef with sour cream, gherkins and beetroot. In a place where you'd expect absolutely no reference to location, it's here in spades.
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