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To see a true culinary workshop in action, head to Asador Etxebarri, where part chef, part blacksmith Victor Arguinzoniz deals almost exclusively in grilled food. If you can eat it, he'll grill it. Caviar, cockles and even milk are cooked over locally felled oak and, unlike at many asadors, few of the ingredients arrive charred or blackened. If you're tired of your dinner being mucked about with, this is the place to go.
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