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Labyrinth

Singapore

Singaporean food, but not as you know it

The crux: Traditional Singaporean food is completely re-imagined at Labyrinth. Some dishes look familiar yet taste unfamiliar, while for others the inverse is true; the only thing diners can be sure of is a meal full of surprise and re-discovery.

On the menu: There are two choices of prix fixe menus that are updated every four to five months. Standouts include a modern take on 'bak chor mee', a traditional yellow noodle made instead with thinly shaved squid cooked in a saffron broth, capturing the same bouncy bite and colour from the traditional noodle but with a whole new flavour. There’s also chilli crab, a national dish, this time made with a chilli ice cream served with fried soft-shell crab.

At the pass: After running a series of successful pop ups and private dinners, self-taught chef Han Li Guang decided to leave his job as a banker to pursue his culinary dreams, opening Labyrinth in 2014. While the food was originally labelled as molecular Singaporean, it has since shifted away from the shock factor and now focuses more on the nostalgic elements of food.

Where is it? Labyrinth is located in the Esplanade, Singapore's iconic performing arts theatre. The restaurant features an open view of the pass, where diners can oversee their dishes being plated up by Chef Han and his team.

Bonus point: All spice pastes are made in-house at Labyrinth to preserve the authenticity of the flavours. Chef Han is looking to rediscover traditional methods of sauce making, with a house-made soy sauce and oyster sauce in the works.

Images: John Heng

On the pass

  • Han Li Guang

Style of food

  • Modern Singaporean

Standout dish

  • Chilli crab – soft shell crab and chilli ice cream