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Shuko

New York, USA

Kaiseki dining with New York attitude

What makes it so special? Diners lucky enough to bag a seat at Shuko's C-shaped counter should strap themselves in for the ride. The epic omakase and kaiseki menus are rooted in Japanese traditions, but go their own way in a quietly radical New York style.

Typical dishes: The spicy tuna rolls made with bluefin belly and explosive pickled red Thai chillies are not the only dish to have set tongues wagging. There have been plenty of column inches devoted to a rich tuna belly tartare designed to be smeared on milk toast with oscietra caviar, as well as roasted squab breast with butternut squash purée, grilled scallion and a rich jus.

The chefs: Nick Kim and Jimmy Lau met while working at Masa in Columbus Circle, before opening their first restaurant together, Neta, in 2012. They opened Shuko in 2014.

Don't miss: The excellent cocktails. They might not be an obvious match for delicate raw fish but Shuko serves some seriously good mixed drinks, including Snow on the Orchard – umeshu, apple brandy, egg white and cinnamon fig bitters.

Top fact: The beautiful blond-wood counter is made from untreated tamo, a type of Japanese ash, also used to make guitars. 

On the pass

  • Nick Kim (pictured) and Jimmy Lau

Style of food

  • Modern Japanese

Standout dish

  • Spicy tuna roll