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Wana Yook

Bangkok

A fine dining take on khao gaeng

A Thai staple, reimagined: Housed in a magnificent colonial residence dating back to the reign of King Rama VI, Wana Yook takes tradition seriously – but that certainly doesn't mean it's afraid of innovation. At the heart of its philosophy is khao gaeng, a beloved Thai comfort food concept that literally translates as 'rice with curry.' However, under the discerning eye of chef Chalee Kader, this humble pairing sheds its street-food status, transformed through premium ingredients, inventive techniques and immaculate presentation.

Style and sophistication: All high ceilings, tall windows and curated art, Wana Yook's beautifully restored interior is elegant yet comfortable, with stained-glass accents and period furniture adding to the sense of history and grandeur. Guests begin with welcome drinks in the relaxed lounge before making their way upstairs to the dining room, where rich wooden furniture, silk cushions and moody lighting set an intimate, inviting stage for the tasting menu experience.

What does it entail? Chef Kader's 12-course menus evolve with the seasons, consistently showcasing different rice varieties from across Thailand alongside imaginative interpretations of regional staples. For example, instead of the usual chilli dipping sauce, the tod man pla fish cakes come with a caviar-like topping of cucumber and shallots, and a dish of crab and tiger prawns is served with a tai pla curry like you've never seen it before.

Finishing on a high note: Pleasingly, classic Thai sweets get a modern makeover at Wana Yook, too. An abstract version of piak poon (a confection made with rice flour and palm sugar) is finished with coconut husk dust, pandan leaves and meringue, while another standout dessert pairs toddy palm (a sweet, fragrant fruit) with an aromatic bael-fruit pandan tea.

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