New York

After sitting empty since 2014, this SoHo neighbourhood institution – some say it opened in the 40s, others in the 50s – was revived in 2022 under the ownership of cocktail heavyweight Julie Reiner (Flatiron, Pegu Club, Leyenda, Clover Club), together with Clover Club and Leyenda alums Christine Williams and Susan Fedroff and chef-partner Sam Sherman. The interiors received a smart update to align with the times, but the neighbourhood-centric, easy-going atmosphere hasn’t changed, with unbridled fun seeping into every part of the menu.

The upbeat cocktail list spans the full gamut, starting with the Milady’s Martini, available in either ‘full figured’ or ‘cheeky size’ half measures, through to Julie’s Glögg (vodka, red wine, port, orange – served hot) and Peach Pit jello shots, affectionately referred to as jigglers. And despite its range, every drink is executed with the same top-notch attention to detail as the beverages served at Reiner’s other beloved bars. Laid-back bar food – loaded potato skins, crab mac ‘n’ cheese and a signature stacked smash burger smothered in ‘party sauce’, for example – complements the light-hearted approach. Bonus: the bar opens at noon (every day but Monday) to ferry lunch and brunch crowds well into evening revelries.