Provenance

Beechworth, Australia

As you reach the moody black door of this grand converted Gold Rush bank, look for the sign. To enter, you need to ring the bell, just like you did back in the 1850s. But within, the food tells a far more modern tale. A few hours north of Sydney, the name speaks to chef Matt Ryan’s love affair with local produce, which is manifested here into an array of exciting Japanese-leaning plates. Lockdown closures afforded time to take much of the production in house, with the team pickling, preserving (in sugar and soy) fermenting and fostering flavour across the likes of yuzu kosho. Diners travel the country on four bento-style courses (around 18 individual plates), showing culinary nous and expert understanding of ingredients. Oyster comes dressed in cherry blossom, ichiyaboshi calamari is a great play on the classic, while potato fried in tallow with nori salt elevates the humble spud to new heights. The heritage dining room is the perfect foil for Lindsay’s precise presentation on gorgeous Japanese ceramics. Pairings from the wine cellar – housed in the old vault – complete it, and there’s four bedrooms on hand for those who want to make a getaway out of it.

Key Information

Location

86 Ford St, Beechworth, Victoria, VIC 3747

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