Paris, France

Opened in 2012 by chef Katsuaki Okiyama, Abri was among the first of Paris’ contemporary wave of Japanese-French restaurants – and its pioneering spirit is still very much in evidence. Reservations in the tiny, no-frills dining room – an open kitchen takes up a third of the space – are hard to secure, but perseverance will be rewarded. Okiyama’s artfully coordinated surprise tasting menus (three courses at lunch, six at dinner) are a highlight: think cuttlefish with miso-marinated roast kale and mackerel with vanilla cauliflower crème. On Saturday, a giant tonkatsu sandwich is all that’s served for lunch. Tasting is believing.

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92 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 10th arrondissement, Paris, 75010 Paris

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