Housed in a converted 17th-century presbytery overlooking the river Peyne, Äponem (‘happiness’ in the Pataxó language) is the passion project of chef Amélie Darvas and her Italian-Brazilian sommelier/business partner Gaby Benicio. A surprise tasting menu sees a succession of delicacies made using local produce bolstered by vegetables from Darvas’ garden, complex sauces and delicate spicing. Witness marinated tuna in lavender-infused oil with fresh beetroot or supreme of pigeon with a tonka bean-flavoured jus. With the meal being at the chef’s discretion, leaving the wine pairing in the hands of the sommelier is a smart move here.
L'Auberge du Presbytere, 1 Rue de l'Eglise, Vailhan, 34320 Vailhan