Hotel Du Cap-Eden-Roc


Gatsby-grade glamour on the Côte d’Azur

Where am I? In the heart of the French Riviera. At this starry retreat, the vibe riffs on Great Gastby-esque opulence – it’s a glittering, chateau-style hotel that perches on basalt rocks above the deep blue sea and promises a retro, romantic stay.

What’s the story? Tucked into 22 acres of pine groves, the original chateau was built by the proprietor of best-selling French newspaper Le Figaro and became a hotel in the 1880s. Swept up in the expansion of the Côte d’Azur scene, it became a hangout for the Riviera set. Old school glamour runs deep; it’s said the hotel provided inspiration for F.Scott Fitzgerald’s Tender is the Night, and the guestbook counts Kennedys and Churchills among the signatures.

People head here for: Languid, old-school elegance and intense privacy. Those hiding from paparazzi enjoy the discrete simplicity of the hotel’s saltwater infinity pool that was cut out of the basalt rock at the base of the plot in 1914. Likewise, the two Art Deco-inspired, sea-facing restaurants provide cosseted intimacy, serving an unpretentious selection of summer dishes such as Salade Niçoise, grilled prawns and tender octopus salads. Lunches at the Bar-Grill are served by Breton-stripe wearing staff. For drinks, head to the Eden Roc Pavilion to enjoy a Bellini above the waves.

Let’s talk interiors: Elegant, antique furnishings, plenty of gilding, and wide windows offering glimpses of the yachts out yonder. There’s summery chintz all around and bathrooms are traditional and stacked with marble. The Chateau Suites offer a more conventional experience than the contemporary Eden-Roc offering. For all-out opulence, book one of the villas hidden between the pines. They offer privacy, a private pool and a personal butler service.

Something I wouldn’t know until I got there: The best way to arrive at Hotel Du Cap-Eden-Roc is by sea on a private tender, stepping from a teak speedboat deck towards the retro sea pool, à la Hollywood’s finest. Ask the concierge for details.

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