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Semma

New York

Transportative south Indian cooking

Defiantly south Indian: Semma is part of the Unapologetic Foods group (the team behind acclaimed restaurants Adda and Dhamaka) – and it's clear this is a place that takes the 'unapologetic' formula seriously. A haven of hyper-regional south Indian cuisine (particularly from chef Vijay Kumar's native Tamil Nadu), this sought-after spot doesn't tailor its bold, spicy dishes to meet US expectations; instead, it makes stars of lesser-known ingredients and traditional techniques rarely seen in this corner of the world.

A taste of what's on offer: Semma's full-throttle dishes come as small, medium and large plates to encourage sharing, dipping and scooping. Chef Kumar's signatures include gunpowder dosa – a crispy rice and lentil crêpe filled with spicy potato masala and served with sambar lentil stew – and mulaikattiya thaniyam, a beloved childhood snack consisting of sprouted mung beans, coconut and smoked chilli. If you're after something meltingly meaty, try the ghee-roasted lamb chops with vegetable pulao and salna, a hot and spicy gravy.

All about the atmosphere: Wood-clad and cocoon-like (a design choice inspired by the houseboats of Kerala), the dining room is small, extra-cosy even, with closely set tables and warm lighting adding to the sense of intimacy. Of course, with a conversational crowd and a constant stream of plates arriving at each table, it can get noisy – so much so that you won't notice the music playing in the background – but that's all part of the charm.

Want in? Reservations can be hard to come by. To stand the best chance of securing one, you'll need to be ready and waiting online when tables are released 15 days in advance. If you miss out, however, there's always a fallback: 12 full-service bar seats are held for walk-ins each evening.

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