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Tatiana by Kwame Onwuachi

New York

Food to spark your memory and pull at your heartstrings

A life-long love story: Kwame Onwuachi grew up surrounded by food. His Jamaican mother, a chef, introduced him early to the tastes of the Caribbean, while time spent with family in Nigeria rooted him in the rituals of traditional home cooking. Back in the Bronx, a mix of influences – from Italian restaurants to Chinese takeaways – further shaped his palate. At Tatiana by Kwame Onwuachi, named for his beloved older sister, he draws on all these eclectic influences to create a menu that serves as a heartfelt tribute to his youth.

What's on the menu? A selection of small and large sharing plates bring big flavours to the table. Think short rib pastrami suya (a homage to Jewish delis and West African spices), curried goat patties with green seasoning aioli and mango chutney, and an egusi-inspired tortellini dish featuring Dungeness crab, Nigerian red stew and parsley. The standout signature? Braised oxtails with Thumbelina carrots, chayote squash, rice and peas – a comfort-food classic executed with finesse.

A night at the theatre: There's a real sense of spectacle at Tatiana, from the open kitchen to the floor-to-ceiling windows that run along the restaurant's perimeter, inviting observers to take in the show – so it makes sense that it's located within Lincoln Center, a cultural complex that's also home to the New York Philharmonic, Metropolitan Opera, New York City Ballet and the prestigious Juilliard School.

Loud and proud: A fine-dining spot without the associated stiffness, Tatiana is cool, contemporary and unapologetically high-energy. Matching the unbridled joy of its dishes, there's a convivial, almost party-like atmosphere that's hard to resist, with a playlist of hip-hop and R&B wafting through the air as diners pass plates and sip cocktails.

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