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The Pine

Collingwood

An immersive culinary journey through China

Gather round: The Pine is a little restaurant that knows how to tell a tall tale or two. The passion project of husband-and-wife team Jeremy and Cassie Austin – the former handling the duties of head chef, the latter overseeing operations and responsible for the service philosophy – it's a restaurant that charts the couple's travels around China, each dish a poignant portrayal of a memory of a place. Although inspiration may come from far-flung points, the ingredients are all as locally sourced as possible, with much fresh produce delivered straight from the family's farm.

East meets West: After graduating from chef school, Jeremy Austin spent time working at Antica Corte Pallavicina, a decorated restaurant in Italy's Emilia-Romagna region, where he experienced the rigours of farm-to-table cooking first hand. Cassie was by his side, and the pair later moved on together to China to continue their culinary education – all the while gathering ideas and influences that would later shape The Pine.

What can I expect? Attempt to view The Pine's tasting menu on its website, and you'll be met with a series of colourful hieroglyphs. But, hey – there's no need to go into detail when, in the restaurant itself, each course is delivered with a card inscribed with a personal story. General manager and beverage director, Jeremiah Tomas, leads front-of-house service and is instrumental to the level of excellence guests experience. Previous dishes on the menu have included a tea egg soaked in star anise and black tea, stuffed with a mustardy devilled filling and crowned with caviar, and a sando: a corn-based, ice cream sandwich.

The space: Housed within a converted gas station, this contemporary 24-seat spot is designed around an open kitchen, with a chef's counter offering up-close views of culinary craft in motion. Light wood, clean lines and high ceilings act as the blank page upon which the multi-course menu's plot unfolds.

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