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Edulis

Toronto

Mediterranean cooking with a distinctly Canadian heart

Edulis

On the Pass

Tobey Nemeth and Michael Caballo

Not your average neighbourhood bistro: Edulis is undeniably charming – from its red-painted façade, candy-striped awning and patio filled with pompom-like hanging baskets and planters, to its art-filled interior dotted with candlelit tables and eclectic bric-a-brac. Yet its cutesy demeanour belies a serious culinary pedigree: this intimate spot is a titan of Canadian fine dining, celebrated for its exceptional Mediterranean-inspired cooking and second-to-none service.

What's the philosophy? Run by husband-and-wife, chefs-owners team Michael Caballo (who oversees operations and guest experience) and Tobey Nemeth (who leads the kitchen), Edulis is a restaurant centred around seasonality, simplicity and genuine hospitality. Its tasting menu changes regularly – so regularly, in fact, that it's not even printed – to highlight the freshest local vegetables, seafood and wild-foraged ingredients, all prepared without gimmicks to allow natural flavours to shine.

A taste of what's on offer: The Mediterranean-leaning menu draws heavily on French and Spanish technique and flavour, with past dishes including Quebec snow crab with fennel and a silky mousseline, Mahone Bay scallops cooked in Breton-style Kari Gosse spices, and John Dory with white asparagus, porcini mushrooms and sherry sauce. Beyond the headline plates, even the smallest of accoutrements have the power to impress: the house-made bread and cultured butter is the subject of fervent praise.

Doing it the old-fashioned way: Dining at Edulis is a little like stepping back in time; guests are encouraged to put away their mobile phones and be present in the moment, taking time to experience every morsel of lovingly prepared fare at an unhurried pace. With courses unfolding languidly and conversation left to flow naturally, the experience feels more like an intimate dinner party than a formal restaurant service.

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