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Somni

Los Angeles

A multi-sensory dream sequence

Awakening a sleeping giant: Reborn after the closure of its original iteration at the SLS Hotel – which shuttered during the pandemic – the new and improved Somni 2.0 ranks among North America's most exclusive and decorated restaurants. The vision of Barcelona-born chef Aitor Zabala, who earned his wings at a number of Spanish modernist eateries (including the venerable El Bulli), its name means 'dream' in Catalan. Cross the threshold into its converted-bungalow premises just off Santa Monica Avenue, and you'll immediately understand why.

An otherworldly air: From the whimsical giraffe sculpture that greets guests on arrival to the restaurant's cocoon-like secret courtyard – dimly lit, lined with trees and flecked with floating, cloud-like artworks – Somni is built on a sense of the unexpected and slightly surreal. Inside, a palette of soft whites and glossy surfaces add to the trance-like ambience, while the curved counter, which seats just 14 people, offers up-close views of the chefs' culinary sorcery. As each dish is served, a wall-mounted rainbow bull's head, a subtle Spanish motif salvaged from the original location, watches over proceedings.

Tongue-in-cheek temptations: Each of the belt-looseningly extensive tasting menu's carefully constructed courses is designed to surprise and delight; for example, caviar is served on top of a fish-shaped savoury meringue layered with nori powder and a smoked butter cream, and beef tenderloin tartare is concealed within a tempura-style fried shiso leaf crowned with purple flowers. Desserts include an eye-popping spread of jewel-like mignardises, as well as a cheese course presented under a cow-shaped cracker (how else?).

And to drink? Somewhat unusually, Somni does not offer wines by the glass. Instead, a wine, non-alcoholic or hybrid 'maridatge' pairing is de rigueur. Bottles of wine are available, but it is important to Zabala that diners embrace the 'go big or go home' attitude, as the pairings help to build the cultural dialogue between Spain and California.

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