Ka Kin Tsang
Wild eel plaited with chives and grilled on charcoal
101st Floor, ICC, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon, Hong Kong
+852 2302 0222
That’s a heck of a view. At the top of the International Commerce Centre in West Kowloon, the first outpost of famed Tokyo restaurant RyuGin outside Japan offers the kind of Google Earth views that only come with being 101 floors up.
But what about the view inside? The look is coolly elegant, keeping the focus on the succession of plates ferried to the table from chef Hidemichi Seki’s team in the kitchen. The wares themselves are typically exquisite, not least the selection of sake vessels offered to guests as they’re seated.
Lots of top-drawer Japanese ingredients, then? You know it. Seasonal stand-outs include creamily dense monkfish liver played off the bite of surf clams in a white sauce with yellow mustard, and – if you’re a really favoured guest – fugu shirako, the charcoal grilled sperm sacs of the pufferfish, dressed with sudachi citrus.
What’s with the dragons on the show plates? The original RyuGin meant “singing dragon” while the Hong Kong location, fittingly for a skyscraper eyrie, translates as “dragon in the sky”.