Meetha achaar, Canadian spare ribs
77 Friend Colony (west), New Delhi, India
+91 11 4323 5151
Chicken tikka quesadillas with Swiss gruyère; tandoori bacon prawns with wasabi cream; masala miso Scottish salmon – Manish Mehrota pays little heed to culinary borders at his flagship New Delhi restaurant. Indian Accent is a luxurious, modern-looking space set within The Manor hotel that hosts a mix of international business people and moneyed locals who come to sample some of the most confident and creative cooking on the subcontinent.
Mehrota’s rock-solid classical Indian training at Mumbai’s prestigious Institute of Hotel Management – as well as his refusal to mix two styles of Indian regional cooking on the plate – ensures the fusion doesn’t turn into confusion. Dishes are intricate and multi-layered, but dinner at Indian Accent is a hearty and tactile affair: the dining room might be slick, but this isn’t a sterile, hushed temple of executive dining.
Diners are encouraged to get stuck in with hearty, meat-filled breads, while whole crabs are supplied with tweezers to extract the yielding, buttery meat. Overlooking a cool verandah and lush manicured lawn, the restaurant houses two gigantic silver diya trees of life to lend an Indian accent to the otherwise modern décor.