nic-gossage-fontana

Fontana

Sydney, Australia

It was a loss for the locals of the hip neighbourhood of Redfern – a suburb of Sydney that feels more fitted to Brooklyn – when the restaurant, Ron’s Upstairs, closed in 2022. But they were redeemed when Fontana took over the space and turned it into a good-times Italian diner just a few months later. It comes from a talented trio who know a bit about the city’s food scene: Daniel Johnston, Harry Levy and Ivey Wawn crossed paths at the now-closed Don Peppino’s, another Italian joint in a former nightclub. And they bring their fun-loving energy to this new venture, which is situated atop a set of red-carpeted stairs (a detail leftover from Ron’s). Inside, it’s a classic fit-out with pretty parquet floors, creamy white walls and leather-clad booths. The menu is a celebration of regional dishes that also rotates a handful of favourites including gnocco frito from Tuscany and Lazian-inspired tonnarelli with mussels. There’s also a short but excellent list of funky natural wines for when the dirty gin martinis get too much.

Key Information

Location

133A Redfern Street, Redfern, Sydney, New South Wales, 2016