It isn’t easy to find this magical spot. First, take a taxi to the village of San Juan Bautista la Raya, then turn down a dirt track and look for – a house that looks like every other house on the street. If Oaxaca is the food capital of Mexico, Alfonsia must be one of the best restaurants in the country yet it remains just a handful of tables in the courtyard of chef Jorge León’s childhood home. Show up for breakfast or lunch and Jorge’s mum, Elvira, will offer you steaming guisos (stews) and hot-off-the-comal tortillas. Book in advance to enjoy five-courses based on whatever Jorge has found in Abastos Market that day. Chileate (parsley soup), octopus tacos and shrimp with amaranth leaves are all skilfully cooked, but the real star of the show is his signature moles. Leaning spicy, they are based on regional ingredients such as hibiscus flowers, jackfruit and pulque.
- Average price per person $35
- Tasting menu from $65
- Breakfast: Wed – Mon, Lunch: Wed – Mon
- +52 9512 0481 37
- Visit Restaurante Alfonsina's Website
C. García Vigil 183, San Juan Bautista la Raya, Oaxaca, 71232