34

La Closerie

Tunis

• The Best Restaurant in Tunisia 2023

Ultra-cool Italian cooking in the playground of the city’s glitterati

On the Pass

Bechir Labidi

Pastry Chef

Amine Ben Mena

What’s it about? Tipping its cap to the era of the resto-club, La Closerie occupies a vast, contemporary villa in the well-heeled seaside neighbourhood of La Marsa. It has live music and DJs most nights of the week, soaring palm trees, sprawling terraces and two pools joined by a walkway bridge. So far so LA, and there’s nothing wrong in having somewhere to go for some good old-fashioned, glamorous fun. But it’s the refined Italian cooking with a nod to the south of France that keeps the people of Tunis, and beyond, returning.

How’s the food? From the zucchini noodles lavished with pesto for the no-carb brigade, to the crunchy breaded squid with house-cut tartar sauce to share around, there’s lots to love. Heaping plates of spaghetti with artichokes generously shaved with bottarga and beautifully made vitello tonnato are stand outs, as is the Marseille-style bouillabaisse with an expertly made rouille, and the signature gilded ‘Gatsby’ chocolate cake. La Closerie may be designed for a wild night, but its food is no afterthought.

Who goes? If there’s a place to see and be seen in Tunis, this is it. Fashionistas and businesspeople, Tunisian celebs and media, expats and tourists all share common ground here, each conversing on the news of the day over refreshing tipples and generous servings of pasta.

Worth noting: Don’t take it too seriously. Whether you’re gathering for a sunny Saturday brunch after a stroll on the beach, or planning on dancing long into the night after dinner, dress to the nines, kick up your heels and revel in La Closerie’s air of unapologetic hedonism.

Contact