Hong Kong’s Argo in Four Seasons Hotel collected the Disaronno Highest New Entry Award at Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2022 after landing in the list for the first time in a title-tickling No.3 position. Clinton Cawood speaks to beverage director Lorenzo Antinori about the curious mantra behind creating a continent-topping bar
It’s a testament to the vision of the team behind Argo at Four Seasons Hong Kong that it has debuted in Asia’s 50 Best Bars at No.3, earning it the Disaronno Highest New Entry Award. Even more remarkable is that the bar opened its doors early last year, right in the middle of the pandemic.
“It’s been a rollercoaster,” says beverage manager Lorenzo Antinori. “It’s an incredible honour just to be on the list with so many great bars, so many great friends and so many fine establishments. We’re very humbled,” he adds.
Antinori describes his disbelief during the awards ceremony at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Bangkok, Thailand, where the ceremony took place on 28th May. “I thought it was a mistake! They weren’t calling our name, and I was thinking of how to just leave the room quietly…” he remembers. “When they called us, I didn’t really understand what was happening. I think I only processed it the day after.”
It’s recognition for Argo’s bar team, who have excelled through challenging circumstances. “They were in shock and super happy. For them, the reward is so sweet,” he says.
What makes the accolade even better for Antinori is seeing two Hong Kong bars in the top three, along with Coa being named The Best Bar in Asia. “Jay Khan [co-founder of Coa] is a brother to me, so it’s extra special for us, being so close to such a great bar, and a good friend of ours – it’s a good feeling,” says Antinori.
Lorenzo Antinori is Argo's beverage director
Rolling with the rum punches
Argo may have only opened in 2021, but the project began three years ago, facing delays even before Covid hit. This included an about-turn for the bar’s overall concept and design. “The long journey was beneficial, allowing us to be confident and comfortable in setting up the programme and telling the story of the bar,” he believes.
The concept is an ambitious one, focused on innovation in spirits making, and the people and stories behind those spirits. It has resulted in a novel way of categorising and presenting those liquids, and created a vehicle for exploring changes in the world, and in the way we drink. And Argo is indeed a vehicle, named after the boat in the Greek myth of Jason and the Argonauts.
“The core of our programme has always been embarking on a journey which celebrates the rule breakers of spirits production, celebrating those spirits that are the dark horse,” says Antinori. “The challenge is that we’re inside the Four Seasons, so the idea has been to break with the tradition of the classic five-star setting. We wanted to create a space that was more accessible and fun, while at the same time a place for curious people.”
To realise this concept, Antinori worked with professionals from outside of the drinks world about aspects such as lighting, design, materials and more, as well as an Australian branding agency that he describes as “not the usual agency that Four Seasons would go for”. This resulted in the creation of a persona for Argo, to understand the bar’s identity and tone of voice.
“We’d say that Argo is a geeky, nerdy guy, but also fun – someone who’s curious, and maybe sometimes uses technical terms, but at the same time is extremely down to earth.”
One of Argo's popular cocktails: the Red Rock Sazerac
In practical terms, this has all resulted in a remarkable drinks offering, showcasing some of today’s most innovative spirits producers, and with storytelling at the heart of how these are presented. The bar’s current cocktail list, Here Today, Gone Tomorrow, highlights six staple foods that are at risk of becoming endangered: honey, cacao, rice, apples, vanilla and coffee.
“They’re general commodities we find every day, but really describe the landscape we’re living in, which is also the landscape in which spirits are made,” explains Antinori. The cocktail list brings all of these elements together, in a series of drinks that have been created by the team at the bar.
Antinori gives credit to his time at London’s late Dandelyan, The World’s Best Bar 2018, for some of his inspiration for Argo. “What they did there was a great point of reference for us, as a bar that had a message that was complex and with a lot of depth, but at the same time was an extremely fun venue – to visit, but also to work in,” he says. “I really liked that, so I tried to bring some of those lessons to Argo.”
He’s no doubt also informed by his time at another legendary London cocktail bar, The American Bar at The Savoy – named The World’s Best Bar 2017. “I was extremely lucky to get my first job there, as a barback. It was unbelievable,” he says. “I was kind of a nerd at the time, reading and studying cocktail history while working at this cocktail mecca. Even sweeping the floor, I was happy.”
Argo in Hong Kong earned the Disaronno Highest New Entry Award at Asia's 50 Best Bars 2022
After his time at The Savoy, including two years at The Beaufort Bar, and a spell at Dandelyan, he was approached by Four Seasons to look after their beverage programme in Seoul, and to take on the role of head bartender at Charles H, which took the No.7 position in Asia’s 50 Best Bars this year. In due course, he was approached to lead the creation of a new concept and space within the Four Seasons Hong Kong.
“I love it here,” he says. “There’s a great bar community, and the culture and heritage is incredible. It’s a city that has incredible charm – you live and breathe it.”
It’s still early days for the bar, but with accolades like the Disaronno Highest New Entry, it’s no surprise that Antinori has ambitious plans. “We’ll keep pushing, looking at things in different ways, and questioning what’s happening around us, using our platform as a lens,” he says. “At the same time we want to ensure that people are having a good time, and that we’re giving them great experiences and memories. The main aim is research, curiosity and innovation, but also fun.”
And what of Argo’s persona? “His nature is still the same, but I think he’s gained more confidence, and at the same time even more curiosity. We’re very curious to see what’s next.”
The list of Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2022, sponsored by Perrier, was announced on Thursday, 28th April at a live awards ceremony in Bangkok. To stay up to date with all news and announcements, browse the website and follow us on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and YouTube.
