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No.19

Geranium

Copenhagen, Denmark

No.19

An exploration of Scandinavian terroir in an unlikely stadium location

Why visit? Noma may have hogged the headlines but Geranium has given René Redzepi's restaurant a run for its money as the hottest reservation in Copenhagen. Recently awarded three Michelin stars (before it closed in 2017, Noma had two), Rasmus Kofoed's terroir-driven cooking is taking Scandinavian cuisine in exciting new directions.   

What's on the menu? The 20-plus course Universe menu changes with the seasons, but expect an exploration of Scandinavia's superb wild and organic produce in delicate and beautifully presented forms. What look like razor clam shells are actually made from dough and coloured with squid ink so they can be eaten whole, while a sliver of salted hake is doused in buttermilk speckled with parsley stems and Finnish 'kaviar'.

How do I get there? Take the lift to the eighth floor of Denmark’s national soccer stadium. The dining room has stunning views of the Fælledparken (Common Gardens) with glimpses of the city's copper roofs.

Who’s behind it: Chef Kofoed cut his teeth at Hotel D’Angleterre in Copenhagen and Scholteshof in Belgium before setting up Geranium with fellow chef turned sommelier Søren Ledet in 2007. Ledet now runs the dining room as well as collating a fascinating wine list.

Bonus point: Kofoed is the only chef to have ever won bronze, silver and gold at the prestigious Bocuse d’Or cooking competition in France.

On the pass

  • Rasmus Kofoed

Pastry chef

Style of food

  • Modern Scandinavian

Standout dish

  • The Razor Clam - tartare of razor clam in an edible shell

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