Indian food reinterpreted with modernist cooking techniques
The street food of his home town of Kolkata and a formative stint at El Bulli are the twin inspirations behind chef Gaggan Anand’s boundary-pushing restaurant in downtown Bangkok. Set up in 2010 and taking top spot in this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, Gaggan reinvents regional Indian cuisine using modernist cooking methods. The approach is playful, adventurous and thought-provoking with classic street dishes deconstructed and reinterpreted without losing what made them special in the first place. It’s a clever balancing act that clearly draws on skills and techniques acquired by the chef during an internship with Ferran Adrià’s research team in Spain.
Liquid nitrogen, smoke and dehydrated ingredients add theatre as well as texture and flavour to the chef’s creations. Lamb chops are given a molecular makeover with smoked whisky, spherified yoghurt and mango chutney, while the humorously named Green with Envy sees green peppercorn chicken kebabs combined with coriander foam.
Housed in a colonial-style building with cane furniture, ceiling fans and white-washed walls, the dining room has an elegant charm. There are several private dining spaces, including one looking directly into the kitchen where guests can witness the gastronomic wizardry for themselves. Polished service and an excellent drinks list, including cutting-edge cocktails, complete the standout experience.
Images: Allwecandid, Varavudh Lattanand