A world-conquering Scandinavian restaurant that knows its place
It has been something of a whirlwind 12 months for René Redzepi and the team from Noma. As well as reclaiming the number one spot in the 2014 edition of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, Redzepi upped sticks and moved Noma to Japan for a hugely over-subscribed five-week pop-up earlier this year that received wild critical acclaim.
Now back on Danish soil, the Noma team has been re-energised by its experience in the Land of the Rising Sun, where indigenous ingredients such as raw botan ebi shrimp and wild duck were served to Tokyo diners with dramatic effect.
Now they have turned their attention to Redzepi’s beloved Nordic terroir once again. Dishes are in step with the seasons, such as milk curd and the first garlic of 2015; and the first green shoots of spring with a scallop marinade. And it sees Redzepi doing what he does best: playing with techniques such as fermenting and pickling for creations beyond most people’s eating perceptions.
Noma’s ability to remain fresh and to assimilate culinary cultures other than its own demonstrates not just the immense skill of Redzepi and his team, but also the global importance of Noma. It remains among the most influential restaurants of this century.