Dave Pynt (pictured) with Jake Kellie
Whoa, what’s that beast? It’s a four-tonne, two-oven brick kiln designed by chef-owner Dave Pynt, who won the Chefs' Choice Award in 2017, the ultimate accolade voted for by his peers. Just about everything here is touched by the kiln's heat and smoke, or by the custom grills, and it’s very much the heart and soul of Burnt Ends.
So it’s just another smoky meat joint, then? Far from it. Pynt counts Asador Etxebarri chef Victor Arguinzoniz among his mentors and, like the Basque master griller, sees in the coals the potential to bring out the best in all kinds of ingredients, be they fish, fowl or vegetable.
On the menu: Diners will find langoustines from Pynt’s native Western Australia (he calls them marrons), sweet and juicy with accents of tobiko and an umami-rich kombu beurre blanc. Fennel, charred on the outside and lush within, paired with orange and burrata is also something of a signature.
But they do meat as well, right? With great gusto. The likes of flatiron steak (with burnt onion and bone marrow) and the top-flight Hida wagyu are sold by the hundred-gram weight.
What’s in a name? Texan barbecue enthusiasts take note: Burnt Ends it may be by name, but there’s no low-and-slow smoked brisket on the menu – the restaurant is descended from a pop-up Dave Pynt had called Burnt Enz out the back of an East London coffee roaster in 2012.
Images: Simon Pynt