The beast in the room: A four-tonne, two-oven brick kiln designed by chef-owner Dave Pynt, who won the Chefs' Choice Award in 2017, dominates the busy open kitchen. Almost everything here – from quail eggs to an 80-day dry aged rib – is touched by the kiln's heat and smoke, or by the custom grills, which are Burnt Ends’ heart and soul.
Dominated by meat? Far from it. Australian-born Pynt counts Asador Etxebarri chef-owner Victor Arguinzoniz among his mentors and, like the Basque master griller, he employs the coals to coax out the best in all ingredients, from fish to fowl and vegetables.
On the menu: Though grill-focused cookery might bring to mind animal proteins aplenty, Burnt Ends is certainly not a one trick pony. Sure, one will find a charred flat iron steak with burnt onion and bone marrow, and a mouth-watering 104-day dry-aged rib, but those fall into place alongside dishes such as fennel, orange and burrata, and leeks served with hazelnut and black truffle.
What’s in a name? Texan barbecue enthusiasts take note: Burnt Ends it may be by name, but there’s no low-and-slow smoked brisket on the menu; the restaurant is descended from a pop-up Dave Pynt had called Burnt Enz out the back of an East London coffee roaster in 2012.