Sydney, Australia

This beloved Surry Hills haunt masquerades as a wine bar. But really, it’s all about the food, with the neat wine list playing a powerful counterpart to the edible protagonist. Driven by a coal-fire grill, chef Mat Lindsay’s small plates and snacks have garnered cult status across the city. Once you’re through the Beaujolais-red door, the cosy-cool space reveals a range of communal tables, banquettes and nooks for two. Best to order a few plates to share, so you can sample the full range of Lindsay’s modern flavour combinations – all with signature notes of umami and smoke. Potato rostï with chives and salted egg yolk is the locals’ pick. Add in smoked carrot with burnt coriander paste and labneh, Murray cod fillet with brown butter and native spice, and perhaps the slow-roasted lamb with capers and chicken jus for good measure. Half-sized portions are on hand for those dining solo, so you don’t ever have to miss out, and there’s a keenly priced tasting menu for those who can’t decide.

Key Information


74-76 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills , Sydney, New South Wales, NSW 2010