The youthful gang at Grön pluck and plunder their way through Finland to create the finest plant-based menu in Helsinki. Reverence is given to forgotten ingredients and super-seasonal produce, such as rowan buds, served just one day each year. Colourful dishes might include raw, fermented peas with pike roe, seasonal herbs and pod broth or grilled beef ribs with chlorophyll-cooked cabbage, truffle and charred onion stems. It’s ambitious but accessible. The space – stark and industrial except for a wall that is groaning with ferments including ‘lemon from a trip to Portugal in 2018’ – boasts convivial buzz. Forget pointless pomp: Grön is about great food and good times.
Albertinkatu 36, Kamppi, Helsinki, 00180