Sushi Meino

Tokyo, Japan

The Japanese sushi scene is, on the whole, a man’s world – but the opening of this Azabujuban spot by chef Mei Kougo signals a shift in the tide. Having studied under masters at Sushi Sho, Nishiazabu Taku and Sushi Arai, Kougo provides a refined omakase supported by her all-female team. Combining creative small plates – say, akami and fatty tuna ‘spring roll’, wrapped in rice paper – with lightly seasoned nigri using native Shiga Asahi rice, she allows the quality of the ingredient to shine. She’s also not afraid to riff on the past, showcasing Sushi Sho’s signature dish, ohagi – a savoury version of the traditional rice sweet with tuna, pickled radish and green onions – as well the seared conger eel from Arai. Kougo’s sister, a trained pastry chef, finishes the meal with off an exceptional sweet tamagoyaki, spiked with seasonal flavours such as kumquat or lily root.

Key Information

• Tasting menu from $410
• Lunch and dinner: Mon – Sun

Location

Azabujuban 1 Chome−6−1 6F, Minato-ku, Tokyo, 106-0045