Essencial

Lisbon, Portugal

Less is more for chef André Lança Cordeiro, the chef behind this pared-back Bairro Alto address. It’s his follow-up to the fiercely acclaimed and even tinier Local, where he served up superlative French cuisine at a 10-seater communal table. Essencial still has an intimate feel, though its dining room is larger, kitted out in polished concrete and pale wood, with an open kitchen at one end. Cordeiro’s cooking is restrained and self-assured, combining exemplary French technique with locally sourced ingredients, like spider crab and scarlet shrimp. Look out for the pistachio-flecked pâté en croûte (a dish he’s famous for), and the lobster and sweetbreads vol-au-vent with indecently buttery puff pastry. Lighter options include gnocchi and grilled fish, if you’re already eying up dessert: a shared tarte tatin, perhaps, or feather-light vanilla millefeuille. The extensive wine list’s particularly strong on Portuguese and French producers, with two or three-glass pairings if you’re just dropping by for lunch.

Key Information

• Average price per person $75
• Tasting menu from $106
• Dinner: Mon – Sun
• 351 21 157 3713
• Visit Essencial's Website

Location

176 Rua da Rosa, Bairro Alto, Lisbon, 1200-407