Wana Yook is what happens when you take base-level food culture and elevate it to fine-dining status. Chalee Kader’s menu shares its DNA with Khao gaeng, the culture of simply ‘curry on rice’ found across low-key eateries across the country. But here, amid the cossetting confines of a delightful colonial house – complete with antique furniture and stained glass aplenty – guests witness its genius evolution to fine-dining standards. It’s an epicurean experience made for the modern palate. Across 12 courses, Kader travels the country, flexing his perspective on regional stalwarts taking key elements – a tasting note, an ingredient, perhaps a colour – and reimagining them entirely. Take his iteration of southern gaeng tai pla – a soupy, pungent curry made from fermented fish. At Wana Yook, each element is dried and powdered to create the same nostalgic flavour, just with an entirely different look and mouthfeel. His layering of flavour is something to behold – a true lesson in the art of complexity. And stylish plating is a pretty as a picture given.
5 Phaya Thai Rd, Thung Phaya Thai, Ratchathewi, Bangkok, 10400