Chefs Jack Croft and Will Murray met on the veg station at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and forged their friendship with a shared commitment to sustainability. At the duo’s solo restaurant, backed by hospitality legend James Robson, there are paper menus made from harvested algae and mushrooms grown onsite (no mean feat in central London) but also a super-stylish interior of green marble, red leather and Tom Dixon lighting that suggests hair shirts are very much not the dress code. Food from the open kitchen follows the sustainable ethos with veg to the fore and a signature dish of cod’s head with sriracha butter sauce: confrontational in every sense (the eyes remain intact). More conventionally, there’s an excellent Sunday roast based around rump from retired dairy cow and an unmissable side order of potato millefeuille glued together with beef stock.
2 St James’s Market, St James’s, London, SW1Y 4RP