How one Seoul restaurant is bringing a fresh perspective to Korean cuisine.
It's no secret New Korean gastronomy has been on a rapid ascent since the late 2010s. Chef Jungsik Yim's self-titled Seoul-to-New York restaurant was the catalyst, with a brigade of talented chefs propelling the movement in the years since. Now, a new voice is making waves.
San, a sleek subterranean restaurant in Seoul's upscale Gangnam District, opened in mid-2024. Leading the project is chef-owner Jo Seung-hyun, who, after running the kitchen at Benu in San Francisco for eight years, returned to his native Korea to pursue his first solo restaurant. Chef Jo also spent time in the kitchen at The French Laundry, Piazza Duomo and Geranium before settling in California to work alongside renowned Korean chef Corey Lee.
The cooking at San is precise, focusing on the getting the basics right
"Working as chef de cuisine [at Benu], I was able to develop and learn a lot of what I need as a chef. I also worked closely with Chef Lee and learned tremendously from him. Thanks to that experience, I gained the confidence to open my own restaurant under my name," says Chef Jo.
Updated plates
The impact of Chef Jo's classical French training and modern European influences are clear at San, where seasonal Korean ingredients are given new life through the team's imagination and skill.
"Since I was born and raised in Korea but spent almost half my life abroad, I realised I could bring a different perspective to Korean cuisine, and that excited me. I thought we could create something truly interesting," explains Chef Jo.
Dishes including butter-poached fish with chrysanthemum, dried daikon, lemon and sancho form the seasonal tasting menu
The 13-course degustation menu is restrained, showcasing remarkable precision and touches that surprise and delight. Depending on the season, an experience at San might open with highly prized winter snow crab, Crystal caviar, chicken bouillon and egg yolk pudding, followed by beef steak with celery, deodeok, chilli bernaise, radish and black truffle. Desserts follow the same philosophy, with the likes of toasted-rice ice cream with ripe persimmon, gamtae seaweed and Madeira.
Back to basics
While creativity and new reflections on Korean ingredients and techniques like fermentation are paramount at San, there's also great importance placed on the basics of running a great restaurant. "What I've focused on from the beginning is building a proper restaurant. I mean, there are very basic fundamentals that aren't always upheld, and I'm committed to maintaining those," says Chef Jo. "Hot food served hot, service that truly satisfies our guests and consistent quality – these are the fundamentals I think about constantly," he explains.
Despite being open for less than two years, San has caught the attention of Asia's culinary community, including chef Mingoo Kang of Mingles: "The hottest new restaurant? Restaurant San," Kang says in a recent video interview.
San's kitchen space and dining room flow into each other, with neutral tones and soft stone complementing the delicate dish presentation
While momentum is building for Chef Jo's debut culinary project, he admits there's room for refinement. "As we've only been open for about a year and a half, I think the restaurant is still very young and developing.
"I wouldn't say I'm quite ready to talk about a fully-formed philosophy yet," he says. "I hope the restaurant will continue to evolve, offering new experiences while maintaining its essence. I want San to be a constantly developing restaurant," he continues.
Family style
One thing that is sure to become a focal point for San and its culinary concept is a sense of legacy. The restaurant is named after Chef Jo's son, whose name, San, was inspired by a recent trip to San Sebastian.
"When I was working in France, I took a vacation to San Sebastian in Spain. That's when I found out I was going to be a father, so I named him San," says Chef Jo. "That period is actually quite significant to me – I was intensely devoted to my craft and I was seriously thinking about my future and my goals as a chef. Those memories, combined with that moment, made me want to open my first restaurant, so I named it after my son," he explains.
Chef Jo hopes San will have a lasting legacy, in part through family ties
Now, years later, San can sometimes be found in the kitchen, helping with service and plating. It's something of a dream realised for Chef Jo, who worked alongside three generations of chefs running a restaurant together at La Maison Troisgros: "I thought it was beautiful, and I've wondered if someday we could build something like that."
As for the future, Chef Jo has high hopes for San and its lasting legacy: "I hope that one day, San can become the kind of restaurant I admired back then – a place that can be passed down through generations."
Watch the video to discover more about San's story.
San is the winner of the One To Watch Award 2026, as part of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants. The full list will be revealed on 25 March from Hong Kong.
