What’s it all about: On paper, it all sounds fairly traditional: the restaurant has beem family owned for generations, with a menu that leans heavily towards Austria’s rural Styrian region and its delicious but simple produce. However, set in revolutionary surrounds and guided by chef Heinz Reitbauer, Steirereck has become a byword for cutting-edge cooking rooted in the Austrian landscape.
Style and substance: Housed in a monolithic, architectural marvel of mirrored glass in Vienna’s Stadtpark, Steirereck’s design may be super-modern but the interior speaks a recognisable language of international fine dining. Expect a light-filled vision of blonde wood, rough-luxe concrete and crisp white linens.
On the menu: Reitbauer’s signature says everything you need to know about his outlook, being equal parts culinary theatre, precision and reverence for local ingredients. The freshwater mountain fish, char, is cooked at the table in hot beeswax before being returned on a plate with yellow carrot, pollen and sour cream.
Anything else? While the tasting menu is, undoubtedly, the best way to engage with Reitbauer’s concept, the à la carte offering includes plenty of gems, too. Wild boar’s head with purple carrots and pineapple, local pike and a modern take on goulash with spelt and medlars have people coming back for more.